Rebellious Roots That Save the Earth: Vetiver from Tuscany

23/07/2025 – On the next leg of our journey across Italy in search of new ingredients, we stopped along the Tuscan coast in Massa, where we met Valentina Rappelli, founder of Vetiver Toscana. This is where the vetiver we use exclusively in our perfume Figo is grown. Thanks to her expertise and passion, we were among the first to extract and use this particular variety of vetiver in perfumery.

Hello Valentina, can you tell us how your company started?

Hello, my name is Valentina, and I’m the founder of Vetiver Toscana. Our story began out of a very practical need: after a flood, some parts of our vineyard kept collapsing, and we needed a natural solution to protect our home from landslides. We discovered vetiver, a plant with deep, fibrous roots that stabilize the soil, and decided to plant it ourselves. Seeing that it worked, we began researching, experimenting, and studying the plant, and eventually we were encouraged to start our own company—and so we did. Initially, I worked alone as a sole proprietor, and between 2016 and 2017, I turned it into a company together with my husband Andrea. It’s now been almost 14 years.

How did you discover vetiver?

We started by planting it directly on our land to see if it could really help contain the landslides. We conducted tests with pipes to check whether the roots would really reach deep into the soil, and we realized the plant was extremely effective. That’s how the idea of turning this experience into a business was born. Vetiver Sardegna already existed in Italy and provided us with support and guidance to get started. That company no longer exists, but thanks to their early help, we were able to grow and remain among the few cultivating vetiver in Italy today.

How is vetiver used in Italy today?

Vetiver is an incredibly versatile plant: it’s grown to stabilize lands at risk of landslides, remediate areas contaminated with heavy metals, and purify polluted water. It’s also used in domestic wastewater treatment systems, and thanks to the intense and characteristic scent of its roots, it’s a valuable raw material in perfumery as a base note.

Our clients range from private landowners needing to protect their land from erosion to contractors working on environmental projects on behalf of municipalities and public institutions. We also collaborate with universities and research centres interested in studying vetiver’s properties, particularly those related to phytoremediation.

Have you ever tried any experiments?

I remember once when my husband Andrea wanted to test vetiver’s resilience by creating tanks of water contaminated with gasoline, diesel, and used motor oil. Despite our doubts, the plant not only survived but also cleaned the water by absorbing the hydrocarbons into its roots, transforming them into small, easily removable pellets. It was incredible to see the water become clear in just a few days. A home experiment, of course, but today it’s being seriously studied by universities for phytoremediation purposes.

What are the plant’s characteristics?

The most remarkable feature of vetiver is its root system. It’s dense, fibrous, and can reach depths of up to 4 meters, allowing the plant to naturally stabilize the soil. The above-ground part has a long, thin canopy, reminiscent of pampas grass. Vetiver is a perennial plant, but during winter it goes into dormancy: it turns yellow, at least in part, and then revives in spring when temperatures rise above 10°C. Seasonal pruning removes old parts and restores it to full vitality. In theory, it can live up to 150 years—I even have plants that I planted 16 years ago that are still thriving. The only real risks are using herbicides or planting it in areas that are too cold, with persistent frost.

How do you cultivate vetiver?

We always start with small seedlings, which we transplant into containers. For perfumery, we use large tubes or containers with loose, sandy soil to make it easier to extract the roots, which will then be used for distillation. For landslide control, we create sturdy, manageable containers that are easy to plant on site. Each year we aim to increase production; our current goal is to reach at least 30,000 plants.

What is the connection between vetiver and perfumery?

Vetiver leaves have no smell, but when we extract the plants from the pots, the roots release a strong, distinctive scent. We cultivate a specific variety, Vetiver Monto (Chrysopogon zizanioides cv. Monto), provided to us by Vetiver International at the beginning of our journey. Some have tried to distil it using traditional methods for other aromatic herbs but without success. So far, you were the first to extract it successfully for a perfume.

So, what do you think of our Figo?

I have to say, when I smelled your fragrance Figo, I found it fantastic—not just because I’m biased, but because it really is something special!